6 Types of instant lawn we supply and install

We supply, deliver and install 6 different types of instant lawn to domestic and commercial clients in Randburg | Sandton | Midrand | Roodepoort | JHB | Germiston | Centurion | Pretoria

Warm season instant lawn and maintenance – Warm season lawn is ideal for maintaining lushness during the hot South African summer month. These lawns include Kikuyu, Gulf-Green, Tiffsport, and LM.

Maintenance of Kikuyu, Gulf Green, Tiffsport and LM

MOWING The first mowing will be required 7 to 10 days after planting. A rotary mower or cylinder mower can be used. For the first few mowing set the mower at the highest possible cutting height. Slowly reduce the cutting height but never less than 15 mm in full sun and in shade areas not less than 65 mm. Mowing at less than the recommended cutting height will result in a gradual thinning of the lawn. CUTTING HEIGHTS Kikuyu 15 mm – 25 mm Gulf green 8 mm – 15 mm Tiffsport 15 mm – 25 mm LM 45 mm – 65 mm NB: Never remove more than 1/3 of the leaf length in a single operation as this will ultimately weaken the stand, e.g. if you intend to maintain an area at 30mm, do not let the grass grow longer than 45mm before mowing. NB: Grass in the shade must be mowed long. (not less than 45mm + ) For shady conditions, we recommend Shade Over® which is available as an instant lawn. MOWING FREQUENCY Summer: The grass grows actively and should be mowed at least once, and even twice per week. Autumn: The growth slows done – should be mowed at 10–14 day intervals. Winter : The growth stops as the Warm Season grass goes dormant. Mowing every 4-6 weeks to tidy up the lawn will result in a neat appearance. Warm Season grass forms a dense springy turf under close and frequent mowing. If not frequently mowed, newly cut e.g. Kikuyu grass can look whitish and rough textured, because the leaf shafts grow long and is visible after the mowing. NB: Since seasons are unpredictable, these are guidelines and a decision as to how to mow, should be based on observation of how fast the grass is growing. EDGE TRIMMING Edge trimming needs to be done with every mowing, as Warm Season grass is a creeping grass. LAWN MOWERS Rotary mowers or cylinder mowers can be used. It is important to ensure that mower blades are sharp to prevent tearing, making entryways for disease. FERTILIZER MAINTENANCE Since Warm Season grass grows most actively in Spring & Summer, this is when it needs to be fertilized most. It is beneficial to scarify warm season lawns first in spring when an application of 5:1:5 can be introduced onto the roots at 50g / m². Lawns do best when fertilized “little and often”. Grass growing in sandy soil needs to be fertilize more often than that growing in a clay soil, since the nutrients leach out far more readily in the first instance. Conventional or controlled (slow) release fertilizer can be used. GENERAL FERTILIZATION RECOMMENDATION AS FOLLOWS Spring : 5:1:5 applied @ 50g/m² (beginning of Aug & end Sept) Summer : 5:1:5 or LAN controlled release 50g/m² (Mid Nov, end Dec & end Jan) Autumn : 5:1:5 controlled release 50g/m² (beginning of March & end of April) Winter : No fertilizer is necessary while the grass is dormant. WATERING For the first 10 days after planting, the lawn should be watered thoroughly, twice a day. Although adequate watering is very important, over watering and “puddling” must be avoided. Make sure the soil remains moist but not muddy. Different types of soil must be taken into consideration. NB Do not water later than 2 pm so that grass can dry off before night falls. Warm season grass requires approximately 25 mm of water per week to flourish. Once established, it is better to water the lawn once a week, thus encouraging deep root growth. It is advisable to use a rain gauge in the garden so that only top up watering is done during the raining season. Warm season grass can drown from over watering. If conditions are very hot and dry, it may be necessary to cool the grass down at midday, by watering lightly. Remember that shady areas tend to dry out more slowly than sunny areas, and that over watering is just as much of a problem as under watering, especially if your soil has high clay content. It is best to water at night or in the morning, but never in the evening. The grass must dry off before dew falls. NB: Irrigation systems should be designed to deliver less in the shade than in the sun and to provide even coverage. ESTABLISHED LAWN Growing season: 25 mm per week, once a week (Aug – April) Winter months : 25 mm – 30 mm, once a month (May – July) Since watering frequency is greatly influenced by soil type and climatic conditions, this watering schedule can only be regarded as a guideline. The grass will “tell” you that it needs water when it takes on a bluish tinge and loses turgidity. PEST CONTROL Many pest problems can be attributed to an unhealthy lawn that is under fertilized and infrequently mowed. Bare patches caused by insect or fungal infestations, should be repaired by plugging or sodding as quickly as possible to discourage re-infestation of weeds or disease. WEED CONTROL Weed Type Control Measure * Clover MCPA * Water grass Kerb * Kikuyu Round-up – spot treatment * Kweek Round-up – spot treatment * Crab-grass (Jong osgras) MSMA, but not on Kikuyu * Nutsedge (Uintjies) Basagran * Oxalis MCPA * Wonder lawn MCPA NB: Weed infestations must be tackled without delay to ensure that a small problem does not develop into a big problem that is costly to solve. DISEASES Diseases that do occur, are generally as a result of incorrect management and can be easily avoided, e.g. by altering watering times and frequency. Pouring on fungicides is not the solution, since physiological problems can be incorrectly attributed to a fungal pathogen. If you encounter a fungal disease, spray a mixture of Bravo 50ml/10 l of water and Ridomil MZ 30g 10 l of water over the whole lawn. REPAIRING BARE PATCHES WITH PLUGS OR SODS Bare areas can be repaired either by plugs or instant lawn. – Remove dead grass – Loosen the soil – Plant plugs or lay sod – Roll or trample under foot – Water area TOP DRESSING Use only weed free lawn dressing or weed free top soil. (Building Sand) SOIL AERATION Severely compacted areas should be aerated regularly, to a depth of at least 15 cm, using a garden fork.

Cool season instant lawn – Cool season lawn is resilient even during the dry coldness of South African winters. These include Evergreen Gold and All Seasons Evergreen.

Maintenance of Evergreen Gold and All Seasons Evergreen®

MOWING

The first mowing will be required 7 to 10 days after planting. A rotary mower should be used and for the first few mowing’s set the mower at the highest possible cutting height. Slowly reduce the cutting height but never less than 30 mm – 60 mm. MOWING AT LESS THAN THE RECOMMENDED CUTTING HEIGHT WILL RESULT IN A GRADUAL THINNING OF THE LAWN.

NB: Lawn clippings should be removed with the lawn mower. Never use a garden rake.

CUTTING HEIGHTS

Sunny areas: 25 mm – 35 mm
Shady areas: 45 mm – 65 mm

NB: Never remove more than 1/3 of the leaf length in a single operation as this will ultimately weaken the stand, e.g. if you intend to maintain an area at 60mm, do not let the grass grow longer than 90mm before mowing.

FREQUENCY

Spring & Autumn: Grows most actively – should be mowed at least once a week.
Summer : Growth slows down a bit, so mowing frequency can be reduced to a 7 – 10 day interval.
Winter : Growth is very slow, so mowing frequency can be reduced.

NB: Since conditions are unpredictable, these are guidelines and a decision as to how to mow should be based on observation of how fast the grass is growing.

EDGE TRIMMING

The need for edge trimming is virtually eliminated by the fact that is a non-invasive, bunch type grass. Edge trimming might be required every 4-6 weeks.

LAWN MOWERS

Rotary mowers are generally better because they do not flatten the leaf blade before cutting it. Even more important is the fact that rotary mowers can usually be set to a high enough height. It is important to ensure that mower blades are sharp to prevent tearing.

NB: Grass in the shade must be mowed long, not less than 45mm

FERTILIZER MAINTENANCE

Since All Seasons Evergreen grows most actively in Spring & Autumn, this is when it needs to be fertilized most. If fertilization in Autumn is inadequate, All Seasons Evergreen will not look as good as it could in winter. Cool season grasses such as this one, thrive on high levels of Potassium. Use 3:1:5 or 5:1:5. Since lawns do best when fertilized “little and often”, a controlled release formulation is recommend.

Grass growing in sandy soil needs to be fertilized more often than that growing in a clay soil, since the nutrients leach out far more readily.

Conventional or controlled (slow) release fertilizer can be used. The advantage of the latter is that small quantities of fertilizer are made available to the grass over an extended period of time.

A GENERAL RECOMMENDATION IS AS FOLLOWS

Spring : 3:1:5 or 5:1:5 controlled release 50g/m² 2 applications (beginning of
Aug & end Sept)
Summer: 3:1:5 or 5:1:5 controlled release 30g/m² 1 application (end of Oct)
Autumn : 3:1:5 or 5:1:5 controlled release 50g/m² 2 applications (beginning
of March & end May)
Winter : 3:1:5 or 5:1:5 controlled release 30g/m² 1 application (July)

NB: Fertilize mostly in Spring and Autumn with 5:1:5

 WATERING MAINTENANCE

For the first 10 days after planting, the lawn should be watered thoroughly, at least twice a day. Although adequate watering is very important, over watering and “puddling” must be avoided.

If conditions are very hot and dry, it may be necessary to cool the grass down at midday, by watering lightly. (+1-2 minutes) Your lawn will have to be watered during the dry winter months, as All Seasons Evergreen does not become dormant. Remember that shady areas tend to dry out more slowly than sunny areas, and that over watering is just as much of a problem as under watering, especially if your soil has a high clay content.

In the full sun, All Seasons Evergreen is best maintained with an irrigation system. Not because it requires much more water to survive, but because it needs fairly regular watering. At maturity, this grass has an extensive root system that is well known for its efficient water usage. However, it does not have rhizomes and stolons, thus cannot survive an extended period of dormancy.

All Seasons Evergreen is often over watered, particularly in shady areas where the evaporation rate is lower and the soil’s water retention is better. It is best to water at night or in the morning, but never in the evening. The grass must dry off before dew falls.

NB: Irrigation systems should be designed to deliver less in the shade than in the sun and to provide even coverage.

NB: Do not water later than 2 pm so that grass can dry off before night falls.

MATURE LAWN

Hot months: 12 mm 2 – 3 x weekly sandy soil
25 mm 1 – 2 x weekly clay soil

Cool months: 12 mm 1 x weekly sandy soil
25 mm 1 x fortnight clay soil

NB: Since watering frequency is greater influenced by soil type and climatic conditions, this watering schedule can only be regarded as a guideline. The grass will “tell” you that it needs water when it takes on a bluish tinge and loses turgidity.

PEST CONTROL

Many pest problems can be attributed to an unhealthy lawn that is under-fertilized and infrequently mowed. Bare patches caused by insect or fungal infestations, or the removal of weeds, should be repaired by seeding, sodding or plugging as quickly as possible to discourage weed infestation or re-infestation of fungi.

WEED CONTROL

Weed Type Control Measure

– Clover Glean / MSMA (Masmar) / Superphosphate 100g/ m²
– Glyphosate (Ridder or Round-up)- Spot treatment
– Water grass MSMA / Servian
– Kikuyu MSMA sets back , doesn’t kill + Glyphosate – Spot treatment
– Cynodon Glyphosate – Spot treatment
– Crab-grass (Osgras) MSMA
– Nutsedge (Uintjies) MSMA
– Dollarspot Bravo / Heritage/ Banner
– Oxalis Harmony S
Wonder lawn Harmony S

DISEASES

One of the main reasons for All Seasons Evergreen being a mixture of fescue and rye seed grass. is that it provides sufficient genetic diversity to ensure that the impact of any diseases is significantly reduced.

Diseases that do occur, are generally as a result of incorrect management and can be easily avoided, e.g. by altering watering times and frequency. Pouring on fungicides is not the solution, since physiological problems can be incorrectly attributed to a fungal pathogen.

If you encounter a fungal disease, spray a mixture of Bravo 50ml / 10 l of water and Ridomil MZ 30g 10 l of water over the whole lawn.

REPAIRING BARE PATCHES WITH SEED OR SODS

Bare areas can be repaired, and a thinning stand revived by sowing All Seasons Evergreen seed, which, is available at all Mayford stockist’s in 100g TOP UP PACKS.

– Remove dead grass
– Loosen the soil
– Sprinkle seed over the area (100g / 2 ½ m²) and rake in lightly or lay sod
– Roll or trample under foot
– Water patched area

NB: Re- seeding must be done in Spring or Autumn for quick results.

TOP DRESSING

Do not top dress All Seasons Evergreen with either lawn dressing or sand.

SOIL AERATION

Severely compacted areas should be aerated regularly, to a depth of at least 15 cm, using a garden fork.

 

Instant lawn installation

Roll on turf allows you to enjoy a lawn of instant beauty and maturity without the usual time-consuming hassles of seeding or planting runners. The following steps are the basic steps to a beautiful lawn.

STEP 1 – Measuring & Ordering
With a tape, measure the area of your planned lawn. Include these measurements on a sketch of the lawn area, with the length, width, and any unusual features. Multiply the length by the width to determine the area (sq. m). If you are having difficulty we will be happy to determine the amount of instant roll on lawn you will need from your sketch. Prompt installation on the day of delivery is crucial to a strong beginning for your instant lawn.

STEP 2 – Soil Preparation
For best results, dig the area to a depth of 10 to 15 cm. (4 to 6 in.) or cover area with good quality top soil. Eliminate drainage problems by having soil slope away from foundations, etc. Rake and smooth the soil removing rocks, roots, and any debris. Roll the area lightly with a roller 1/3 full of water. This will firm the soil surface and reveal low areas that need more soil. Keep the grade 2 to 3 cm. (1 in.) below sprinklers, paths or driveway. A good starter fertilizer (2:3:2 or 6:3:4) is a must to ensure all the trace elements are available in the soil. Spread the fertilizer evenly and rake into the top quarter inch of soil, this will feed the lawn while it becomes established. Water the prepared area to settle soil and provide a moist base for the turf. Moistening to a depth of 5 cm is recommended for most soils.

STEP 3 – Turf Installation
Install your lawn immediately upon delivery or pick up as it is a perishable product. Begin watering lawn within 30 minutes of installation. Turf is a living plant that requires ground contact and moisture to survive! If laying large areas on hot days soak lawn well after lying (lawn should be kept wet at all times). Protect un-laid turf by placing stacks in shade, covering with moist sacking, and/or sprinkling. Begin installing turf along the longest straightest line. Butt and push sides and ends against each other firmly, without stretching. Avoid gaps or overlaps. Stagger the joints in each row in a brick-like fashion, using a large serrated knife to trim corners, etc. On slopes, place the turf pieces across the slope. N.B. Avoid standing on the lawn. To avoid causing indentations or air pockets avoid repeated walking or kneeling on the turf while it is being installed or just after watering. It is important after installing the turf, to tamp, roll or preferably lightly compact the lawn to improve turf/soil contact, eliminate air pockets and remove uneven patches. When all the lawn has been laid and compacted, water it heavily.

STEP 4 – Watering
Soak lawn heavily each morning for three weeks. On hot days watering around midday will be necessary to keep the lawn moist. Avoid watering when conditions are windy to maximise watering efficiency. Gradually reduce the frequency of watering to encourage deep rooting; this may take 1-2 months. To maintain very presentable, a mature lawn on deep draining soil will require watering twice a week for 20-30 min per time. Extreme heat wave conditions mean more watering. 30 mm twice a week is the maximum water requirement for most established lawns.
N.B. FAILURE OF A NEW LAWN TO ESTABLISH ITSELF IS GENERALLY 100% ATTRIBUTABLE TO A “LACK OF WATER”
HAND WATERING IS NOT RECOMMENDED AS IT WASHES THE SOIL AWAY FROM UNDER THE ROLLS. WATER BY SPRINKLERS ONLY.
Roll on and shredded lawns are very susceptible to dehydration and dying off in the first 5-6 weeks after planting.
Therefore they must be kept moist continuously during this period. To accurately determine a watering program which achieves this, and remains efficient, requires an astute evaluation of the environmental conditions present.
Temperature and prevailing winds are the most important environmental factors to consider. When determining your watering program, other environmental factors to consider include the protection the site gets from sunlight, strong winds and the quality and depth of the topsoil.

EXAMPLE OF A WATERING PROGRAMME: for a new lawn in the height of summer in an area which receives strong easterly winds with no protection. On hot days in summer it may be necessary to water four times a day for 10 minutes at a time in the first two weeks, then twice reducing to once a day for 15 minutes for the next 3 weeks early in the morning. Care should be taken not to water when the wind is actually blowing as it will severely reduce the precipitation rate i.e. the amount of water that actually hits the ground. If watering in the wind is unavoidable compensate by watering for longer.

After 5 weeks, as for any lawn situation, deep rooting should be encouraged by reducing the frequency of watering from 7 times a week down to 1-2 times a week, over a period of 2-3 months.

Lawn should be watered with a fixed, below ground irrigation system, preferably professionally designed: ideally it should be matched to an automatic controller. Hand watering should be AVOIDED as it is too uneven and can erode the soil by pitting. Small amounts of water i.e. 10 minutes per day are quickly lost in evaporation (within the first two hours after the sun is up), leaving the grass roots close to the surface and exposed to the heat of the day.